52 Weeks, 52 Half Marathons - Stage 7
Sintra’s spinal cord
March, 2nd, 7:07 am
The moderate distance of half-marathons makes it hard to come up with unique routes. I have several planned, that unfortunately require me driving for a reasonable amount of time, which means that I will have to stay the night before - regrettably, I don’t have that luxury of time, but they will happen. Another aspect resulting from the distance, and duration, is that in several circumstances it is long enough that one can experience substantially different weather patterns - as I did today.
The route today is what Stage 2 was meant to be but I cut it short because I was coming back from a flu. I call it Sintra’s spinal cord because we run along the peaks of the mountain range.
I started approximately 1km from the Aldi supermarket from State 1 to aim for the 21.1 km. It’s inside what looks to be a closed gate condo area, but in reality, it is served by public roads and provides easy parking.
If you were suspicious of what was coming, brace yourself, there is going to be a lot of climbing.
The sunrise was exactly at 7:07 AM, I got slightly delayed, so I missed part of the early orange lighting. The meadow that accompanies the long climbing straight is mesmerizing. It’s a pity that the sidewalk on the right side of the road is interrupted half-way because that’s where I should be running.
At the end of the road we arrive at the “Aqueduto do Ramalhão”, a small aqueduct from the 18th century that sits there like some kind of portal to the micro-climate that lives in Sintra downtown.
The climbing slope keeps increasing up to infinity for the next km, it is not an easy start. After the 1st peak, there is a relaxing km down to the city center. There is no sidewalk, so as usual, no AirPods and be prepared to stop should there be any car coming. This early in the morning, the probability of crossing with a car is very low.
At some point the road is painted like if we were on a track for extra grip, it’s interesting. The descent tastes like a morning coffee after the initial get out of bed punishing climb.
We swiftly get to the city center, desert, as I like it, but still alive. I recall doing this route during the pandemic and it still gives me the chills. The streets were empty and quiet, a post-apocalyptic view as if I was living it inside a really scary dream. Those were times that I hope they never come back.
Coming back to downtown Sintra to eat the famous Travesseiro local pastry at Periquita is a must.
If you followed my stage 2, you might recall that this is where hell breaks loose. Get you mountain climbing gear ready.
From here to the end we will actually be following the route of a famous local running race, “Corrida do Fim da Europa” - Race to the far end of Europe, allusive to the fact that it ends at Cabo da Roca, the most western tip of continental Europe.
I have to warn again that I will be running on the road with no sidewalk. The road is mostly one-way and with limited traffic. I crossed a total of 1 car, during the whole climbing. There are several warnings about the possibility of falling rocks and trees. These are real and should be taken seriously. I don’t recommend running during very windy days (or the day after storms) to reduce the risks - today, it was one of those do as I say, don’t do as I do moments. Yesterday was very windy and there were some severe weather alerts for the weekend.
The forecast for early morning was clear, that’s why felt it was safe enough to go out. The road is engulfed by the green, it is mesmerizing and hard to spare film from my camera.
It was cold enough for me to be eager to get to the top and enjoy some warmth from the sun - more on that later.
The road snakes up the mountain and I could imagine myself racing a car through this turns, it helps making me feeling my legs lighter. Sintra used to be a major stage of the Rally of Portugal. Everything has its time, today it would be unthinkable to have cars racing through this paradise.
The climb goes from km 5 to km 9, with a short 200m interlude to catch your breath at km 8. It’s tough but the landscape keeps soothing the pain. The colors today were full of contrast.
The solitude of the moment cleans my soul. The birds are “blowing Dixie double four time, you feel alright when you hear the music ring” - no need for Apple Music or Spotify. My feet stomping mark the beat.
The 2nd peak comes at km 9, and from there until km 13, I call have called it the roller coaster segment that mostly goes down, an invigorating stretch of road to digest the hardships of the climbs.
The next milestone is at km 13, by the peculiar old Convento dos Capuchos, a convent from the 16th century that is mandatory to visit in Sintra. This marks the beginning of our next adventure, the ascent to Peninha peak. A progressive slope climb from km 13 to km 16. As we get closer to the ocean, the vegetation gets richer and richer from all the moist that is blown by the northern winds agains the mountain range. Sintra is the ideal stress test for any product that has to withstand humidity extremes. Most constructions in the area, miserably fail.
The road is now perfectly paved, like a red carpet laid for bikers and runners, with a an easy deceiving slope of approximately 3%.
The weather has changed, my blue skies no more, and I can kiss my warm sun bathing wishes goodbye. The climb keeps me warm.
I know this mountain range like the back of my hand, and still am astonished by the sheer beauty of this road. I think today I must have run with the phone in my hand most of the time. I did not want to miss a frame.
Knowing it so well, is also a curse. I know that ahead lays one of the hardest climbs that I tackle regularly. I call it the wall, 1 km free climbing, sometimes close to 13% grade - back breaking.
I realized today, that on the side of the road Sintra has mermaid trees (lack of oxygen flowing to my brain?). Vines are the mermaid’s hair, covering the tree trunks, hypnotizing you to keep climbing oblivious to the strenuousness.
The road is flooded with green, it is absolutely incredible, I spare no film, it keeps my mind away from the “stairs” up the wall.
At the top we arrive to a spot that the biking community has rightfully named “The Enchanted Forest”.
The place is sprinkled with boulders wearing moss and trees dressed in vines. It is close to impossible to describe and to capture in a photo. Come and see it.
We have passed the 3rd peak at km 16, that has a little brother/sister at km 16.5.
You did it, you have arrived at the final milestone. It’s time to collect our reward. We can now cheat our Strava 5k PR. It is a glorious 5+ km down to sea level from here. Get on 5th or 6th gear and floor it.
Well, you will be distracted by those mermaids, just cover your ears, and use the phone to check them out later
The trees are rooting for you to attack your PR. It feels like you are skiing down this road. It is exhilarating.
The beauty of the forest keeps smashing its record at every corner that you take.
At around km 19 we will get to a main road and need to be extra careful to cross. From now on the road becomes busier (still sparse traffic though), I would say its imperative not to wear headphones. There is not a lot of space at the edge of the road so my advice is to be prepared to stop and to calmly move over to the side of the road to avoid any incoming car. I crossed and handful.
The weather changed again, the forest disappears and the north wind is blowing hard against me. The descent almost becomes an ascent, we are approaching our finish line.
I forgot to mention that this route cannot be done on Sundays. For some reason, motorcyclers have elected Sundays to gather at Cabo da Roca. The road is totally not safe for running.
The lighthouse is in sight, but the road is completely unprotected and the wind is upset. This is going to be a harder last km.
The route ends where the road ends, where Europe kind of ends, and where the tourists gather. Already there is a fresh batch of Chinese tourists with their phones out.
The Ocean was not too angry today, but it gets seriously rough in this area. The landscape is fascinating but the tourists would not let me capture an empty photo.
The weather was not as beautiful as it looks on the final photo, I guess the mermaids must have tweaked it.
This run is hard. The climbs are steep and long and the final 5 km are extenuating.
You really need to let yourself get pulled by the Sintra mermaids.
Sintra is heaven.
Enjoy your runs!
APF
